The kitchen
Yoshinori Ishii trained in Kyoto and brought a real kaiseki method to a Mayfair basement, holding a Michelin star since five months after opening. The menu follows the Japanese seasonal calendar, so a visit in June is not the meal you would eat in October.
The room
The space is designed with the same economy of means as a well-considered Japanese interior: dark, quiet, unhurried. The sake list is serious, and for those who prefer to eat across a bar rather than at a table, the counter is the better seat.
The proposition
The specific value, for anyone outside Japan, is that this level of seasonal Japanese cooking is available in London without fourteen hours of travel, with the rigour genuine rather than adapted for a Western appetite.