The Gatekeepers Club
ServicesIntelligenceAviation & YachtingMarketplaceEventsPavilionsJournalChronicles
← The Journal
THE TABLE

Umu

Mayfair, London, United Kingdom · June 2026

A Kyoto-trained chef brought a real kaiseki method to a Mayfair basement and held a Michelin star since five months in. Kyoto-level seasonal cooking without the fourteen hours of travel.

Nigiri finished with truffle, Kyoto precision on a Mayfair counter.
Wagyu with young bamboo, plated with restraint.
Caviar over a cold set custard, one of the tasting-menu turns.
Warm from the clay pot, paired to the sake list.
Matcha and sakura, to close.

Yoshinori Ishii trained in Kyoto and brought a real kaiseki method to a Mayfair basement, holding a Michelin star since five months after opening. The menu follows the Japanese seasonal calendar, so a visit in June is not the meal you would eat in October.

The space is designed with the same economy of means as a well-considered Japanese interior: dark, quiet, unhurried. The sake list is serious, and for those who prefer to eat across a bar rather than at a table, the counter is the better seat.

The specific value, for anyone outside Japan, is that this level of seasonal Japanese cooking is available in London without fourteen hours of travel, with the rigour genuine rather than adapted for a Western appetite.

Cuisine
Kyoto kaiseki
Recognition
One Michelin star
Setting
Mayfair, London
Menu
Seasonal kaiseki, about GBP 180 to 220
Best seat
The counter
Booking
Reserve well ahead

Umu is our London answer when a client wants Kyoto-level kaiseki without the journey. TGC holds the table, including the counter seats, which are the hardest to get.

Want us to arrange it?

We hold the relationships, the rooms and the access. Tell us the dates and we handle the rest.

Visit website ↗
← All entries

More Tables

Browse the Journal →
THE TABLE

Tantris: Fifty Five Years in the Same Building

Open since 1971 and never moved, in the purpose built house it opened in. Munich has rebuilt itself around Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7. The address has not changed once.

Read the review →
THE TABLE

Broeding: No Menu, One Room, and an Austrian Wine List Sold by the Case Next Door

A Munich restaurant with no choice on the menu, a new set menu every night, and a wine shop attached. The wine list is built by people whose day job is selling the bottles, which changes what ends up in the glass.

Read the review →
THE TABLE

Le Doyenné

Two Australian chefs left the Paris kitchens for the stables of a château thirty-six kilometres out, and cook almost entirely from a market garden that was already there. The garden is the restaurant, not its supplier.

Read the review →
Umu | The Gatekeepers Club